Wood Finish Compatibility Chart
Applying the wrong finish over an existing one is one of the most common mistakes in wood restoration. This chart shows which finishes are compatible with which, and which combinations will cause adhesion failure, bloom, or fisheye.
Select your existing finish to see compatibility
Species & Finish Affinity Guide
| Species | Best finish | Avoid | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oak | Hard wax oil, Danish oil | Standard varnish (tannin reaction) | Oak's tannin can cause water-based finishes to turn grey. Use shellac sealer coat first. |
| Walnut | Danish oil, tung oil, wax | White primer (colour bleaching) | Walnut takes oil beautifully. Avoid bright white primers which can bleach the heartwood colour. |
| Ash | Oil, varnish, paint | — | Ash is less reactive than oak. Accepts most finishes well. Good for painted architectural work. |
| Pine (period) | Wax, diluted shellac, paint | Polyurethane over resinous knots | Knots must be sealed with shellac knotting solution before any topcoat or resin bleed will occur. |
| Teak | Teak oil, tung oil | Film-forming varnish | Teak's natural oils prevent adhesion of film-forming finishes. Oil is the only reliable approach. |
| Mahogany | Danish oil, shellac, lacquer | — | Period mahogany often had shellac (french polish). Maintain in kind for authenticity. |
| Yew | Hard wax oil, tung oil | Water-based finishes | Yew reacts poorly to water-based products. Oil or solvent-based finishes only. |
If restoration has revealed that components need replacing, Farwinger turns bespoke components in any hardwood species — matched to your original wood and profile.
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